City Bus to Masada.

Today started out with a cool breeze in the early morning. I thought it was the perfect beginning to our plans for the day. Yesterday we had decided to go to Masada and the Dead Sea on the same day. At the last minute we changed our plan and chose to go to Masada only, we would go to the Dead Sea tomorrow or Thursday. It turned out to be a good decision.

After breakfast, we got on the tram for the Central Bus Station at about 8:30. There was a 9:40 a.m. bus, so we had a few minutes to wait at the departing gate. As chance would have it, I sat next to a Japanese fellow. We chatted and, as it turns out, he knew the company I worked for in Silicone Valley -- Alps Electric. Alps is a Japanese manufacturer of computer peripherals, so it's well known in Japan. It was fun reminiscing about some of the cities I used to visit while in Japan on business.

Bedouin Settlement along the
highway to Masada and the Dead Sea

After boarding the bus at 9:45 we departed the station at 10 a.m. and started our 1 1/2-hour journey to Masada. As we drove through the desert, I noticed how modern and well kept the highways are in this country. We enjoyed a four-lane divided highway all the way to our destination.

Along the way we saw an occasional Bedouin settlement. Their dwellings look like temporary structures and seem to be made from plywood, cardboard and canvas.  Most of the roofs are corrugated metal. Around their dwellings, herds of goats and/or sheep graze in the hot sun. There are about 130,000 Bedouin's in Israel and these nomadic people have been residents of the Middle East for the last 7000 years! Quite a history.

After Hitch Hiking we arrive
at Masada!!

We arrived at Masada at around 12:15 p.m. It was "hot" and the Visitor's Center is a healthy walk from the bus stop. As we walked along, a couple of cars passed us and, as a humorous gesture, I put out my thumb to "hitch hike". A delightful young couple from Paris picked us up and drove us the rest of the way. We had a wonderful couple of  "getting to know each-other" moments. We learned they were visiting from France for 2 weeks and were touring the country by car. We saw them off and on during our time on the top of the mountain and said "hi".

There are three ways to get to the top of Masada. One, the tram, was our choice and only takes a few minutes. The other two are trails one on each side of the mountain. One may choose to walk up and or down -- but in the heat of summer, we decided against it.

On top of Masada with the Roman
Fort and Visitor's Center below.

Once at the top, we chose to rent an audio tour and began exploring the mountain top. Masada is truly an "ancient place", dating back to 37 B.C.E. when "Herod The Great" built palaces for himself on the mountain. I visited both of these -- one to the north and down the mountain by a few hundred feet. The other is the "Western Palace" located on the level top. The tourist, "me", can see the Northern Palace via a series of stairs and paths.

The rest of the mountain-top is a series of ancient cisterns, storage rooms, living quarters, pathways and public areas. Masada, as an archaeological find, is relatively new and was "rediscovered"

At the "Commanders" Residence
--Masada--

as recently at 1842. The excavation of the site generally took place between 1963 and 1965 and still is going on today. Interestingly, as one wanders around the mountain-top looking at the buildings, a "black line" painted on the walls designates the original construction. The area above the line is a reproduction.

Using the audio tour as our guide, we wandered the 27 stations of Masada listening to the descriptions. It takes about 2 1/2 hours to explore the encampment. I'm sure there was much that we missed -- but it seemed a thorough way to see this ancient site.

At about 4 o:clock, we made our back to the Visitor's Center cafe for some lunch and cool drinks. We found the bus stop and headed back into Jerusalem. The bus came fairly quickly and we enjoyed the cool air conditioning and rest on the bus after an exhausting but interesting and enjoyable visit to Masada.

Stay tuned, reader, it "ain't" over yet!!

Dome of the Rock, Temple Mount and Solomon's Stables

Ramp over the Western Wall
to the Dome of the Rock.

This morning we decided to visit the Muslim Quarter and the Dome of the Rock. The Dome of the Rock is located on a larger area known as Mt. Moriah, The Temple Mount and Har Habait. The site, itself, is a sizable compound used by Muslims as a place of worship as well as more informal gatherings for family and friends.

There are two ways for the tourist to gain entry into the Dome of the Rock. One, through the Muslim Quarter, at the end of a  long narrow street -- almost a straight shot from the Jaffe Gate. The other is a long wooden and steel ramp up and over the Western Wall. We chose the ramp. As we walked along the long covered ramp, and to the right, there is an active archaeological dig underway. On the left side, the Western Wall is below. The crowd of worshipers at the Wall, on the men's and women's side, was very large.

Once inside the compound a number of tourists, all men, were asked to stand aside. We were all wearing shorts -- a mode of dress considered too "immodest" for us to enter the area.  At the end of a long portico, we were offered a scarf large enough to cover our legs. Twenty-five shekels and 5 minutes later we were on our way onto the grounds of the Dome of the Rock.

Walking around the Dome of the Rock and adjacent properties is a "quieting" experience. It is cosidered one of Islam's holiest sites.  The "rock" dates 70 C.E. and has been in continual use since then. The dome, and the building on which it sits, was constructed in 571 C.E. As we learned about this part of the Old City, we found that the site has significance to Jews, Christians and Muslims alike. It is considered one of the most "contested pieces of real estate" on the planet! Quite a reputation.

Linda and Dennis at
The Dome of the Rock.

As we wandered around the area, we found Solomon's Stables to the East of the compound.  Solomon's Stables is a huge 1500 square foot building and is purported to have built by King Herod. We were told that the earliest use of the building may have been a reservoir. Later, in the 11th Century, the Crusaders used the building as "stables". It is now used as a mosque.

The building, sitting quietly in the sun with very little shade to cool the area. We noticed quite a number of "umbrellas" that, when opened, offer shade to the visitors and worshipers. A large tented area serves the same purpose nearby.

After about an hour of exploring the Temp Mount, the Dome of the Rock and Solomon's Stables, we left the compound for a leisurely walk back through the Jewish Quarter. We found a wonderful little food market where we bought some fruit and water and sat under a tree have our snack, watching the passers-by and talking about our experiences so far.

Linda overlooking Solomon's Stables.

Our goal was to venture out and to the Jerusalem Mall. I'm told it's quite a place with hundreds of shops, cafe's and larger "box stores". On our drive-by the other day, for example, I saw an "Office Depot". When we returned to the lobby of our lodgings and discovered that a smaller mall across town was showing the new film Elysium! We decided to opt for that and took a cab to the theater. After the film, which was just "OK", we returned to the Jaffe Gate by city bus.

Tomorrow we're off on the next leg of our adventure -- that is to Masada and the Dead Sea. So, check back when you can. It'll be fun.

Hadassah Medical Center and Chagall.

We set out this morning  with a few things to do in mind. Utmost was a trip across town to the Hadassah Medical Center to see the Mac Chagall windows. There are 12 windows, presented by Marc Chagall to the Jewish people and Israel in 1962. We decided to take public transportation and set out to find our way.

It made sense to me that we'd go to the Central Bus Station and get a ticket for the #27 bus. So, we hopped on a tram and rode the few stops to the station. After navigating the crowd, we made our way to the third floor and the ticket booth. "Sorry", said the nice, but curt, lady in the ticket booth. "Take the tram to Mt. Herzl and then the #27 bus." We did as we were told and managed to get back into the train we had just left only a few minutes earlier! Such are the adventures of being a "stranger in a strange land," (with apologies to Robert Heinlein).

Vickie and Linda at the Abbey Synagogue
and the Chagall Windows.

We found our bus and fortunately, the Hadassah Medical Center was the last stop. Easy. Once at the medical center, it only took a couple of minutes to find the Chagall Windows Information Desk. We purchased our tickets and entered the Synagogue where the windows are on display high above the floor.

It was a bright sunny day outside. The stained glass windows were beautiful in the morning sunlight. Each of the 12 windows tells the biblical story of Jacobs blessings on his 12 sons and Moses blessings on the 12 tribes. We were invited to sit on the far side of the room (so we could see the first window) and enjoyed a 15 minute commentary about Chagall and the windows. After the commentary, we stayed there for 15 minutes or so, walking around the small Synagogue and talking about the various artifacts and inscriptions on the walls.

Yours Truly at the Chagall Windows.

I noticed that some people were walking outside and around the windows, so we asked if that part of the display was open to the public. While it was, seeing the "back of the windows" isn't much of a sight. Obviously, the sun needs to shine through so as to transform the colored glass into the magnificent images one sees from the inside. Yet, it was interesting to see the handy-work from the back-side of the windows.

In the visitors center itself, we noticed a couple of Chagall original works of art on the walls. On the same wall was a set of framed Israel stamps, struck and introduced in 1973 and signed by Chagall. There are 12 "full sheets" of Chagall window stamps, one for each of the 12 windows themselves.

As we left the medical center, we found our bus and learned that one cannot use a tram ticket to "initiate a bus ride".  It turns out, in Jerusalem, that one can use a tram ticket on a bus if it is "first used" on the tram. Or, one can use a bus ticket on a tram if it "first used" on the bus! Go figure?! By the time we returned to Jaffe Gate, it around 2 p.m. Time for some lunch and rest. We found that the  Dome of the Rock and Temple Mount are only open for a couple hours each day, so we'll take in those sights tomorrow morning..

Today (Sunday) is the Israeli first day of the week and our last week in Jerusalem. We've done so much and have enjoyed  every "turn in the road". I also realize that, if one is to see Israel properly, it would take 8 weeks or so. Maybe a bit more. But, our 4 week stay will give us a wonderful opportunity to see this country in more detail than we originally hoped.

So far, so good!!

It could've been Greenwich Village in the '60s.

8 p.m. -- We decided we wanted to do something different for dinner -- Chinese as a matter of fact. We had noticed the "Mandarin Palace" near City Hall, just a few blocks away. It was delicious. As we walked back to the Jaffe Gate, we saw a side street lined with restaurants and pubs. The street was closed to traffic and diners and drinkers were at tables filling both sides of the street.

This time year, Jerusalem is warm and comfortable in the evening, so the streets were crowded with people -- 20-somethings, families and children.

Tomorrow will be an off-day. After seeing the Dome of the Rock and Temple Mount in the morning, we'll venture by public transportation to the Jerusalem Mall for a "look see".

So, as always, stay tuned.....

Ramparts Walk -- The Wall of the Old City...

Map of the Rampart Walk.
he Jaffe Gate is to the Left about mid height.

Today is Shabbat so we figured we'd stay in the Christian and Muslim Quarters of the Old City. As chance would have it I met an interesting fellow traveler from Holland at breakfast --  his name is Hank. He's here for a 3 month stay, but this is his 14th year in Israel. As we  talked about the character and beauty of the City, Hank mentioned The Ramparts Walk  (thanks to Steve Lipman, for this suggestion, too) -- a stroll around the top of the wall that encloses the Old City.

Linda climbs to the top
of The Rampart Walk.

Once again, our location makes for a perfect union of activity and accessibility to many Old City sights. The Ramparts Walk begins at the Jaffe Gate and goes in two directions -- one to the north, along the Christian and Muslim quarters, and one to the south, along the Armenian Quarter, the Zion Gate and the Jewish Quarter. It turns out that the wall around the Dome of the Rock and Temple Mount is closed -- so one must take the wall in two sections. It costs us "seniors" 8 sheqels to make the journey -- and it's worth it.

We bought our ticket and found the entry way -- up a couple of flights of steps, to a gate. Once inside, one climbs more stairs to the top of the wall. It's a narrow passage, for most of the way, with hand-holds on one side and a banister on the other. The walk-way itself is made of small square "domed" stones that are sometimes slippery and difficult to navigate. The "many" steps one needs to climb up or down are often steep and slippery as well. As we continued along the narrow wall, it sometimes opened to a wider space used, we read, as a gathering place for "soldiers" sent to defend the Old City against the "enemy of the day".

Children's Playground, Soccer Field
and School.

Going in the "northern direction", the inside of the city is always to the right with the outside to the left. We would stop every now and then to see the sights that were below. On the outside of the wall, the New City of Jerusalem is below, with many stores, parks and a constant din of activity. By contrast, the inside view reveals the private patios and back yards of residents and churches.  An expanded view of the Old City was displayed before us.

There are so many contrasts. At one point, we'll see the back yard of a 12th Century church and then a modern children's playground just a few feet away. A large soccer field was on the same property. Farther down the wall, in the Christian Quarter, was a soccer stadium and basketball court. It was a fascinating contrast of life in the Old City. Along the way there was another modern children's playground, fountain and sitting area for adults. All protected by fences and, sometimes, guards.

The end of the Northern Rampart
Walk with the Dome of the Rock and
Mosque nearby.

Finally, at the very end of this section of The Rampart Walk, we reached a dead-end -- but the view was beautiful as we looked over to the Dome of the Rock  and a mosque tower in the near distance. We walked down the steps and, thankfully, found a little shop with bottles of cold water and a cool place to sit.

We wandered along the narrow streets of the Muslim Quarter and found a church purported to be the birthplace of Mary. A convent was nearby as was a Catholic seminary. We finally found our way back to the Jaffe Gate, had a bit of lunch and rest, and then will walk the southern section of The Rampart Walk.

A 45-foot spiral staircase.

2:30 p.m. -- With an ample lunch and rest under our belts, we decided to take the southern stretch of the Rampart Walk. I was surprised to find our ticket was good for the entry fee -- so we found the gate and made our way along the inside of the wall the high stairs leading to the top of the Wall. What we saw in front of us was daunting!! There, scaling to the top of the Wall, was a 45-foot circular staircase bolted to the stones. Now, I must admit, I don't like heights. But, we attacked the stairs and made our way to the top of Wall for the second leg of the journey.

Jerusalem from the Southern rim
of The Rampart.

This section of the wall is  quite different. Now the outside of the wall was to our right. We came to a large observation platform -- actually the roof of some building below -- and saw a beautiful panorama of New Jerusalem to the east. We saw the David Hotel in the distance with the Mamila Mall to the right. The park below the Jaffe Gate was visible, with children and adults playing in a fairly large fountain. Along Jaffe Street, traffic was heavy with tour buses and tourists along the parking garage and street.

It ain't Starbucks, but it'll do!!

We managed our way along the wall for about 1/3 of the way and decided that "OK, enough is enough!!". Just as we made that decision, an exit was just a few feet farther down the path, so we took the stairs to the street level. The exit was at the Zion Gate, and we took the winding street back to our "neighborhood" at the Jaffe Gate.

We rewarded ourselves with a coffee and cool drink. It was an end to a perfect morning and afternoon exploring the Old City of Jerusalem in a different perspective. I read, somewhere on the Internet, that the Rampart Walk is a "hidden gem of Jerusalem". It's true. If you're in this part of the world, I urge to try this adventure. But, it isn't for the "faint of heart". Wear good shoes, wear a hat and, above all -- TAKE WATER!!

Tonight, we're off to the movie house at 6 p.m. for a film and a couple of hours in a "cool dark theater". For me -- that's always a pleasure.

Ciao for now.....

Good Intentions...

We started out the day with good intentions. Our goal was to go to the Hadassah Hospital and see the Chagall Windows. The windows, were given by Marc Chagall to the people of Israel in February 1962. Upon checking the visiting hours on the Internet, I found the synagogue (within the hospital and a "working" house of worship) was closed for the Shabbat on Friday and Saturday.

As stated yesterday, the Dome of the Rock and Temple Mount was also closed to all, except Muslims, until Sunday. So our plan is to take all three of these sites on Sunday. Tomorrow, Shabbat, much of Israel -- and the Jewish Quarter of the Old City, will be closed for the holiday. The other quarters will be in full swing and close on their day of rest on Sunday.

Overlooking the City.

Looking for some interesting things to do today, we chose to take the "Bus 99" around the city. At a cost of about $20 per person, the tour bus is a great way to get an overview of Jerusalem. During the 2 hour tour there is an on-going "commentary" about the places we're seeing. We were able to pick up the bus just outside Jaffe Gate so it was very convenient for us.

Since it 's Shabbat (the Israeli and Jewish day of rest and worship) at sundown, only 3 buses run the 25-stop route. Most other days, one can get on and off the bus if something especially interesting comes along. On Friday, however, there is no off/on service! Still, we saw much of the City we would not have seen. One site in particular was an overview of Jerusalem from high above the City and was very impressive.

Burla Street, Nayot, Jerusalem
Anglo English Speaking immigrants.

Among the 25 stations along the way, we saw the Knesset (Israeli's parliament), the Hebrew Union College, the Israeli Supreme Court and the Jerusalem Mall. We ventured into a number of neighborhoods, some of which were established in the 1920's. Some of the neighborhoods, however, were established much more recently. One I found interesting, Nayot, was established in 1963 for the "Anglo" English speaking immigrant population -- primarily from the U.S. and Canada!

At the end of the 2 hour bus tour, we found ourselves at the Central Bus Station for Jerusalem.  Besides being a "bus station", it is replete with shops of all kinds. Foods, clothing, jewelry and even a pharmacy were in ample supply. After looking around for awhile, we went to the information center for -- "information". Our plan, over the next 3 or 4 days, is to take public transportation to such destinations as Masada, the Dead Sea, the Hadassah Hospital and the Knesset. Next Saturday we'll transit by bus to Tel Aviv and the next leg of our journey.

My original impression of Israel is that we'd have to rent a car or take "day tours" to see much of our itinerary. But such is not the case. Jerusalem in particular, and Israel in general, is a modern "first world" country with a full and complete public transportation system. It isn't like Europe, and their train system, but it's pretty good.

So, as always, tuned.....

Zion Gate, The Last Supper and Shindler...

Gate to Mount Zion, King David's
Tomb and more...

We continue to explore the Old City of Jerusalem, discovering interesting and new venues as we go. Linda and her sister, Vickie, wanted to head back to the Western Wall with some notes to leave there. As we left the Jaffe Gate area and headed toward the Jewish Quarter, we passed through the Armenian section. I'm not sure they call it a "quarter", as it is quite small. Along the way is the Zion Gate.

Site of the Last Supper.

The Zion Gate leads to Mount Zion and the site of King David's Tomb and Jesus' Last Supper. It is home to a variety of Jewish and Christian centers. We saw, but didn't visit the Chamber of the Holocaust (Israel's first holocaust museum founded in 1948). We spotted at least two "Yeshiva study centers" (a Jewish orthodox college or seminary), and an Abbey. The Hagia Maria Sion Abbey, is the site of King David's Tomb. King David's rein is thought to be from 1010 to 1002 B.C.E. Of course, we visited the tomb and were impressed by the imposing bronze statue of King David just outside the entry.

We gained entrance to the room which, purportedly, is the site of Jesus's Last Supper. We stayed for a little while, taking in the historical significance of the room. It is a quiet and cool room on the second story of a building near David's Tomb. Interestingly, it is surrounded by some private residences. The top of the building has a wonderful view of Jerusalem.

Oskar Shindler's Grave.

As we began to leave Mount Zion and continue our trek toward the Jewish Quarter, an old "orthodox" women mentioned that Shindler's grave site was just a short walk in the opposite direction. So, we chose to take a look. We made our way down a steep hill and across a fairly busy street to a grave yard that, unfortunately, was locked. Although we couldn't see the grave site itself, we stood there for awhile, talking about Shindler's contribution to the Jewish people during World War II.

After visiting the Park of the Righteous yesterday, it adds a new and interesting perspective to Shindler's story. He saved 1200 Jews during the war. Of course, we know of him because of the Speilberg film "Shindler's List", but I wonder how many other "righteous people" of that time have interesting stories that haven't been told?

We finally made our way back to the Jewish Quarter and the Western Wall. Linda and Vickie -- and yours truly -- spent a few minutes at the Wall. We enjoyed a lite bagel lunch in the Jewish Quarter and set out to see the Dome of the Rock and Temple Mount.  As it turns out, the Dome of the Rock and Temple Mount are closed to all, except Muslims, until Sunday.  We'll try again then.

So, as always, check back again.....

Yad Vashem, Wall of the Righteous and Mt. Herzl.

Today started out early and we enjoyed a breakfast at our favorite cafe. We then made our way to the tram on Jaffe St. and took the ride to the very end of the line -- at Mt. Herzl. A shuttle bus takes passengers to the "World Center for Holocaust Research" known as Yad Vashem.

Yad Vashem - Hall of Remembrance.

Yad Vashem isn't just a "Holocaust Museum" but is a research and educational facility. There are archives,  a Hall of Remembrance", a Museum of Holocaust Art and outdoor sculptures as well. It also includes a Road and Park of the Righteous and the Valley of the Communities.

The Road and Park of the Righteous honors those non-Jews who, at personal risk and without evangelistic or financial motive, chose to save their Jewish neighbors, friends, and even strangers, from the on-going genocide taking place within the Nazi sphere of influence. Each name is listed by country. Some countries only had one name while Poland, for example, had hundreds of the Righteous engraved in the stone. It's a sobering and uplifting sight.

At the Park of the Righteous.
My Grandparents were from Latvia.

The Valley of the Communities is a 2.5-acre site commemorating the thousands of communities that were destroyed by the Nazi's and their collaborators before and during World War II. The Valley of the Communities is a massive outside site with huge cut blocks of stone used to create a maze. As one wanders the maze, massive stones name the villages, cities and towns where Jews lived and, at one time, flourished. There is an educational facility and information center there as well.

As the day progressed, and as we explored these three sites on the campus of Yad Vashem, we were constantly reminded of the very real dangers so many people face throughout the world. The Holocaust is but one of these horrible events -- past and present.

As we were leaving the Valley of the Communities we caught a shuttle bus to the Mount Herzl Cemetery. It isn't very far from Yad Vashem and it was an easy walk from the shuttle to the main entrance. It's also known as Israel's Mount of Remembrance. Mt. Herzl has served as Israel's "National Cemetery" since 1951. It is Israel's "military cemetery" and one soldiers from many of Israel's wars are interred there. It honors Jewish, Christian, Muslim and Druse soldiers who fought to defend the security of Israel.

The gravesite of Theodor Herzl.

We sought out the National Founders grave sites which include Golda Mier and others who served as presidents and prime ministers of Israel.  A number of other "ministers" are buried there as well. A short walk to the west is the grave site of Theodore Herzl, who is considered the founder of modern political Zionism and the founder of the State of Israel.

By the end of the day, we felt tired but happy we had a chance to visit such important sites in Israel and Jerusalem. We made our way back to Mahane Yehuda for some dinner and then back to our lodgings for a well earned rest.

Tomorrow? Who knows. there are lots of possibilities, so stay tuned for the next installment........

Chores and more...

Breakfast at Christ-Church Guest House.

Today is going to be a "house-keeping" day in Jerusalem. At 9:30, we need to contact the delivery van so we can collect Linda's luggage. Let me note that "Delta Airlines" has contracted with a delivery service that "refuses" to bring our luggage to our address. They say it's because we're inside the Jaffe Gate in the Old City. Yet, the street in front of us has a never-ending parade of cars, taxis, delivery vans and buses coming and going all day. But, we're being asked to meet the van at a parking garage -- about 15 minutes away. The luggage will be delivered within a 2 hour window. So, standing on a street corner for 2 hours is "very appealing".

So, I'm thinking Delta Airlines deserves recognition for their "Customer Service" -- and I think they need to hear from us when we get home!!

Each morning we walk a short distance to the Christ-Church Guest House for a delightful buffet breakfast. The cost is 40 shekels, about $11.50, and offers a wide variety of vegetables, breads, fruits and drinks.

I'll post to the blog a couple of times as our day unfolds....

Terry from Milwaukee,
Marquette University.

10:30 a.m. Our luggage will be at the designated place between 2 and 4 p.m. BUT, if we call at 1 p.m. we'll get a more precise arrival time. I believe that!!?? Don't you?

Meanwhile, we've taken the day off to tend to a variety of "chores". We've taken our soiled clothes to a local laundry for a wash n' dry. We'll do a bit of shopping and ask about an English language movie here in the New City. Right now we're sitting in the lobby of the hostel enjoying a fascinating discussion of religious philosophy. One of the guests, here, is a theology teacher at Marquette University. Now if "Bill Maher" was here, it would be a more lively discussion!!


4:30 p.m. -- Luggage in hand, all is well. Now, on to important things like gathering and then folding our laundry.

But as I sit here reporting these comments, I can hear church bells from the Christian Quarter across the Old City and ringing in the distance. A little while ago, the Muslim call to prayer rang out as well. It's Ramadan and, at sunrise or sunset, one can hear fireworks celebrating the holiday. As we wander inside the Old City, we experience the fact that Muslims, Christians and Jews live in close proximity in apparent peace and prosperity.

The narrow streets of the Old City are like a "time machine" -- peeling back much of the 21st Century. Vendors selling their wears. Old men and women balancing heavy loads on their heads. Then we'll see someone talking on a cell phone or sending a "text message"! It's a wonderful and fascinating dichotomy of today's reality.

Coffee Anyone?

7 p.m. ---  We've discovered a great coffee bar and cafe in the Mamila Mall just a few steps from the old Jaffe Gate. The three of us had an ample dinner of salad, bread and beer for under $30! Quite a treat considering the venue and quality of the food. After, as we returned to our lodgings, I enjoyed a Turkish coffee from a street vendor just outside the Gate. The coffee was made in the "old way" -- boiling the grounds over an open fire in a silver pot and then poured through a strainer into a cup. It was strong and delicious. It put a perfect cap on the end of another enjoyable day in Jerusalem.

Mamila Mall (Rodeo Drive of Jerusalem)

Tomorrow our plan is to visit Yad Vashem, the Righteous Among the Nations Garden and National Cemetery. We're also planning day trips to Masada and the Dead Sea as well as Bethlehem.

So stay tuned

Jerusalem: The Old City, The Jewish Quarter...

We started out the day a bit later than usual -- about 8:30 a.m., so I guess we're getting used to the new time zone. Add to that that "miles of walking" and bed-time doesn't come early enough! Our goal was to make our way to the Jewish Quarter and the Western (or Wailing) Wall. But, fate intervened a bit.

We received an email from Delta Airlines telling us that their delivery company had "tried" to deliver Linda's luggage. There was a telephone number to call, so we tried to find a phone that would serve that purpose. Within 100 yards of our lodgings, there are three public phones -- none of which work. There's a phone in the lobby of our hostel which doesn't work. We have a "travel phone", purchased expressly for this purpose which doesn't work. We were able to buy a telephone card for 30 shekels, but since we can't seem to find a phone that works -- it's a bit useless!

Overlooking the Western Wall (The Dome of the Rock in the background).

Finally, the tourist bureau allowed us to use a phone. We called and were told that the luggage can be delivered to "Jaffe Gate" -- but not the reception of the hostel. So -- the saga continues!!  One observation I can make is that no-one seems very motivated to lend a hand. When we explain our dilemma, they'll shrug their shoulders, rock their heads from side to side and say "what can I do?" It seems to be a Israeli custom. I'm sure if we were staying in a $500 a night room, we'd have a different experience.

Sooner or later, of course, we'll get the luggage. Maybe??!!

But, enough of this complaining!!

We ventured back to our little restaurant off the beaten path and had a nice breakfast. After studying the map, we set off to the Jewish Quarter and the Western Wall. The Jewish Quarter, present in one form or the other since 134 C.E. now houses about 2000 residents and is home to a variety of "yeshivas" and synagogues. As one enters the Jewish Quarter, the environment changes dramatically. It seems lighter and more orderly. One doesn't see any trash in the narrow streets and it is considerably more quiet than the Christian or Arab Quarters we've experience so far.

Linda at the Western Wall.

As we progressed into the Jewish Quarter, we found a variety of shops and bistros. We decided to have a bit of lunch after seeing the Western Wall, so we kept following the narrow street around until some signage directed us in the right direction. I had visited the Wall in 2007. I was surprised to see the extensive security apparatus surrounding the area. The first time I was here, one just "walked up to the wall". Now, everyone must pass through a security checkpoint and have their bags inspected. Additionally everyone passes through a metal detector. Even with these precautions, it doesn't take long before we were in the crowd of people near and around the Western Wall.

Bar Mitzvah at the Western Wall.

I must admit that approaching and touching the Western Wall is an emotional experience. Here, too, the history of the environment boggles the mind and senses. The Wall (Temple) was first constructed in the 19th Century B.C.E. and was then known as "Solomon's Temple". After its destruction in 586 B.C.E. and the Second Temple was dedicated in 516 B.C.E. It would take pages and pages of descriptions to describe the iterations of The Temple through numerous periods of history -- but suffice it to say, the Wall is recognized by the Jews as a holy site. Its continued existence through the ages attest to the tenacious spirit and determination of the Jewish People.

During our visit there, we witness two bar mitzvah celebrations. It was fun to see the kids in their best clothing, carrying Torah while accompanied by their family and friends. One family, from New Jersey, had made their way to Israel and the Western Wall for the express purpose of their sons bar mitzvah.

It was getting late enough for us, so we made our way back to the Jaffe Gate area. First, we enjoyed a nice refreshing lunch in the Jewish Quarter. Tonight, we understand, there's a light show nearby, so we may be taking advantage of that activity.

More to follow, so stay tuned.....

Jerusalem the New City...

Ben-Yehuda Street in the New City, Jerusalem.

Today we decided to venture outside the walls of the Old City of Jerusalem into the New City. After checking with the Information Bureau and reviewing a map, we decided to walk to Ben Yehuda Street. It was about a mile or so out the Jaffe Gate and along Jaffe Street -- straight ahead. Easy. It took about 15 minutes to get there.

Ben Yehuda is a major street in downtown Jerusalem blocked off from vehicle traffic. Along the 8 or 10 blocks of the street, one will find all sorts of shops -- jewelers, coffee, ice cream and foods. Street performers entertain the passers-by with musical instruments and more. We saw a wonderful performance by a juggler -- for example. We spent about an hour exploring the many shops along both sides of the street.

We then decided to find the Mahaneh Yehuda -- the main market area of Jerusalem. The market, called the Shuk by the locals, consists of more than 250 vendors selling fresh fruit, vegetables, baked goods, fish, cheese, nuts and even "Judaica". Add to that the hundreds of shoppers and the vendors calling out the prices of their goods, and you have a wonderful cacophony of sights and sounds that boggle the senses!

One can wander in and out of the main and sides streets for hours, sometimes sampling the foods or enjoying a snack. We stopped at a small shop and took a break while drinking a Turkish coffee and Americano "decaf".

A most delightful late morning and early afternoon.

Finding our way back to Jaffe Gate in the Old City was easy. We chose to spare our feet and legs and took the tram. Jerusalem has a modern and comfortable tram system (remember the "street car"?). For 6.60 shekels (about $1.85), one can ride in air conditioned comfort. The journey back to the "gate" was just a few minutes.

We returned to our lodgings at about 1:30 p.m. and decided to take a rest. Our plan is to venture out again at 3 o:clock or so to find a food market in the Old City.

Linda at The Shuk Market.

3:30 p.m. -- It was time to think about some food shopping and dinner.  The tourist bureau told us about a couple of food markets in the Arab section of the Old City -- but one of our neighbors counselled against dealing with the " complex and intricate transactions" in the Old City. We decided to make our way back to the Mahaneh Market (The Shuk). We boarded the tram and were back in the busy market in a few minutes. If didn't take long to buy some supplies for snacks and venture back onto the tram for our return to the Old City.

Once back, and through the Jaffe Gate, we found a cute little restaurant off the beaten path and enjoyed a lite dinner before calling it quits for the evening.

Tomorrow we're thinking of the Wailing Wall and the Jewish Quarter of the Old City.

Stay tuned for more.....

Our First Day in Jerusalem...

With my good friend Jim at the King David Hotel

Our day started out early, at about 5:30 a.m. We did get a good night's sleep after the 18 hours in transit yesterday. But,  we were up early and ready to go. After a short walk around the Jaffe Gate area, we learned about a nice breakfast being served at a nearby church retreat. It was a wonderful meal. The neat thing about Israeli breakfasts is the amount and variety of foods.  Fruits, cheeses, lunch meats and dairy abound and are presented in a buffet. It started the morning out perfectly.

Just down from our lodgings is the Israeli Tourist Bureau so we stopped by to get some directions to the Prima Royale Hotel. We planned to meet my friend Jim there at noon. After learning the hotel was only 20 minutes away by foot, we decided to walk.  (You may recall that my good friend Jim was on a tour in Israel and we knew we'd both be in Jerusalem on the same day -- with Jim having a free day). So, we headed for his hotel at about 9 a.m.

The Dome inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

We found the hotel with a bit of help from a local. What I thought were the actions of a good Samaritan turned out to be a professional "helper" and his directions cost us about $20!! I was a bit surprised, but learned a valuable lesson about the inhabitants of this wonderful city.

We met with Jim and spent the next couple of hours walking around a part of the Old City. Jim invited us to join his "tour" for a guided walk through a nice section of Jerusalem and part of the Old City. We were to visit the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. All of us agreed it would be great opportunity see part of the city with a professional guide. We met the walking tour at 3 p.m. and spent the next 3 hours enjoying the walk and discussion of the Old City and the Church itself.

Myself with Peter at the Church. Peter is a Brother
serving the Roman Catholic Church and is from Iran.

The Church of the Holy Sepulcher is an important Christian place of worship and symbol of their religion.  It dates back to at least the Fourth Century C.E. and is thought to be the place where Jesus was crucified and then buried. Another interesting reality of the present-day church is that it is home to 6 Christian sects, none of which are Protestant. 

Today's custodians are the Eastern Orthodox, Armenian Apostic, Roman Catholics, Greek Orthodox, the Coptic Orthodox and the Ethiopian Orthodox Churches. During our visit there we witnessed three different religious celebrations.

At about 6:30 we bid farewell to our guide and to Jim and made our way back to out lodgings. A light dinner capped a perfect day in the Old City.

Jerusalem...

Today, July 31, Linda -- her sister Vickie -- and I began  our trip to Tel Aviv for a 3 week stay. We had made reservations on Air Canada weeks ago. As the day finally approached, we arrived at LAX International Airport at 6:30 a.m. for an 8 a.m. departure. Things were going great. We arrived early, had a nice breakfast at an airport deli and boarded the Air Canada plane on time. We departed "right on time" and settled in for a nice ride to Toronto -- the first leg of our journey.

About 5 minutes into our "flight" -- we were taxing along the airport to the runway -- the captain announced that "Ladies and Gentlemen, we're going to shut down engine #1 and restart it. A computer needs to be re-booted"!! OK. Right. I noticed that, after about 10 minutes, the engine hadn't restarted. I mentioned to Linda that we were in for a ride "back to the gate". And, as it turns out, we were. The Captain again announced that there was an engine part needing replacement and there would be a 2 or 3 hour delay.

OK, I thought. Better on the ground than in the air.

The Air Canada counter crew were hard at work and we were soon "rerouted" to JFK and then on to Tel Aviv via Delta Airlines. Oh, but wait. We had to return to check-in, claim our baggage, make our way to the Delta Terminal (3 terminals away), check in at the ticket counter again, check our bags, go through security and make our way to the gate!!!

I must say, everyone was very friendly and helpful. We finally found our way to the Delta flight and spent the next 4 1/2 hours crossing the country to JFK. Once on the ground, a gate change occurred and were not able to deplane the aircraft for about 15 minutes. Since we had an hour to make the flight to Tel Aviv, I was thinking about the tight time-frame getting from gate to gate.

Finally leaving the plane at the gate we found the new Delta gate. It wasn't very far away -- and, as luck would have it, the plane to Tel Aviv was delayed for an hour. Maybe a bit more. So, instead of getting into Tel Aviv at 11 a.m. and having plenty of daylight to find our way to Jerusalem, we are scheduled to arrive at 5 p.m. Still plenty of daylight I would think. But later than we would like.

So -- that's the adventure so far! I can only think that it's great we're experiencing all these "glitches" at the beginning of the trip, and that the rest of the visit to Israel will go smoothly.

What do you think??

Stay tuned.

Baggage Claim Ben Gurion Airport, Tel Aviv Israel.

5:30 p.m. Local Time, Israel. The saga continues!! As we arrived in Tel Aviv, we noted the beauty of the countryside and airport. Once the plane was at our gate, we made our way to "baggage claim" We figured we'd be in a cab for Jerusalem in 15 minutes or so. Well, it didn't happen that way. After Vickie and I collected our luggage, we heard Linda's name called over the p.a. system -- she was asked to report to "lost and found". It turns out her bag never made the plane for Israel and was still in New York!! We were assured that her luggage would be delivered to our lodgings on Monday.  Hey, we believe 'em. Don't you?

Jaffe Gate, the Old City of Jerusalem -- one of 7 gates to the City.

Finally, at about 6:30 or so, we made our way through customs and out of the airport looking for transportation to Jerusalem. We found a cab, the driver's name was Moishe, and we had a enjoyable 40 minute trip to the "Old City". Our driver spoke excellent English, and we learned about his family, the country and himself. We're staying in a cute B&B just a few yards from the Jaffe Gate itself. The "Old City" has seven gates surrounding the ancient walls.

The Old City of Jerusalem covers less than 1/2 square mile inside the modern city itelf. The Old City dates back to before King David's conquest of the city in the 11th Century B.C.E. So, over the next few days we'll be walking the old, and new, city of Jerusalem. There are so many things to do and sites to see.

And, of course, things will get smoother and smoother for us!! Right? RIght!

Today, Linda, Vicky (Linda's sister) and I make our way into Los Angeles for a stay-over before departing for Israel tomorrow. Obviously, we're all excited about our up-coming trip. We'll spend the first 8 or 9 days in Jerusalem -- so stay tuned for our adventures. We're returning on 8/26, so we have plenty of time to tour and see much of the country.

More to follow.....

Next stop -- Israel, 8/1 thru 8/26.  Stay tuned....